The Noth Face Ultra-Trail Tour Du Mont Blanc 2008

29th Aug 2008
166km 9400m
After my completion of the race in 2005 I went to this year’s race with a goal of beating that time. I set myself a target of 32 hours with a fall back of 34 hours if this proved too tough. The route for this year’s race was slightly different to when I first tackled it 3 years ago, in that the course was 11Km and 900m of ascent longer. So I was looking for a large improvement, but due to my other long distance successes I though it to be realistic. My main goal for the year was to complete the Paddy Buckley round so this was a bonus.

On arrival in Chamonix it was as beautiful as I remembered from 3 years ago, and I mused over why it had taken me so long to return. I came up with the conclusion that at the time it was a goal just to finish and it was job done and onto the next challenge. These ended up being the BG, which also led onto the thought of doing all the big 3, of which the next step was the PB earlier this year.

I decided that although it was a bit tougher than before, the challenge for me now was to finish it in a good time. I used all my knowledge gained over the years and formulated a plan based on the likely hot conditions. Part of the plan was to go fairly quick during the night whilst it would be cooler, this would have an added bonus of getting me ahead of the mass scramble at the feed stations. The other part of the plan was to use salt tablets to add to the water (the only liquid supplied in large volumes). But unfortunately I left it too late to order some, and could not find any in Chamonix. Big mistake. My food would consist of mainly energy bars, and energy gels nearer the end, all supplemented by whatever I could grab at the checkpoints.

All preparations were done the bags for Courmayeur and Champex were left with my fresh clothes and food in them. I then spent the day dodging the sun and taking it very easy.

I took my place on the start line which felt more like I was about to watch a concert rather than run for 30 odd hours. The atmosphere was electric and the sun was scorching. Soon enough we were off, walking at first, and then jogging down the road to start our first bit of trail to Les Houches. I felt good and started well. My only issue was feeling like a steak meal from the previous night still hadn’t settled. My back up plan of eating crackers and anything high in salt started well and my progress was good. Col De Voza was the first climb and I found this very comfortable, even queuing at the checkpoint didn’t bother me I just decided the break was nice. Further into the night I got into the routine of filling up the bladder in my rucksack with water taking some food and sitting down for about 4 minutes with a stop watch, so that I didn’t “lounge” around too long.

Lac combal checkpoint was the first time where I felt anything like cold. This was in the early hours and at 6,000 + feet. Which tells you how warm the conditions were? After de gritting my shoes, and 2 bowls of soup I donned my jacket, hat and gloves and continued along the plateau. 1/2 hour later on the climb to Arete mont Favre they all came off again, and no thought after this entered my head to put them back on. The long decent off Mont Favre into Cormayeur got hotter all the way down and it was only 07:00hrs.

A 40 minute stop at the first major ckeckpoint and it was off on the long climb up the valley wall. On reaching the top I started to feel the heat, and had a long 12 minute stop. The next section is more run-able and I felt o.k. apart from I had muscle ache on both sides of my abs making descending painful. Eventually I reached Arnuva and next was the big climb up to the highest point of the course, Grand Col Ferret. I reached the top fairly tired and sat on the trig stone at the top for 2 minutes. The sun by now was beating down.

I descended slowly with the pains in my sides inhibiting my normal efficient downhill gate. I stupidly missed the water stop at Peulaz and ran out on the run to La Fouly. On arriving at La Fouly having drunk small amounts of stream water I felt dry. I immediately drank some water and this made me feel ill. I felt that I could not eat or drink. Simon – a very nice English chap I had previously met at a pub the night before – gave me a salt solution to mix up. I drank this and it worked I felt better. I got up and decided to continue and eat some food whilst I felt I could.

On the longer than it looks ascent to Champex I started to feel ill again, I began to look at my watch and started calculating how long I had to go until the end. The result of my calculation horrified me, 12 hours at this pace and much longer if I slowed down. In my addled weak dehydrated state I never considered anything other than quitting. Once it entered my head it was impossible to ignore, I tried to fight it off, “what else are you going to do, watch other people finish?” no matter how much I fought the demons in my head with thoughts like “this has cost a lot of money”, “all that training”, “all them people that entered but didn’t get in, and at least 1 because you are here” I couldn’t defeat them.

I entered the Champex Checkpoint to cheers of Bravo, alley alley and I felt such a fraud. In my head the battle was lost. When I sat down in the checkpoint area, and felt sick and light headed, the battle was over. I had been defeated. This was a first for me. Up until this point I had never quit on anything. I decided better of carrying on with the 24 hours Paddy Buckley attempt in 2007, after Navigation and other issues, but did not consider this quitting. At first, although devastating, I thought I had made the correct decision in quiting on this race.

Part of the reason for the delay in this post is that I wanted to research and rationalise why I had quit so soon. I had 9 hours to play with on the cut off times, but I could not even think of using them at the time. I think that my lack of a proper fall back “get to the finish” strategy, combined with my successful round in 2005 left me in a state whereby anything but a good finishing time, would be viewed as a failure. The reason I quit at the time was also due to the discomfort I felt. I had salt deficiency which caused all manor of issues like thickening of the blood, so increasing the effort when climbing, and a sickly feeling making eating almost impossible. I have never felt so rough with so far left to go. I now know that the disappointment of watching people finish – who had probably won such mental and physical battles – was much worse than the disappointment would have been had I took sleeps and long breaks and finished in 45 hours.

Lessons learned:

1) Salt tablets are very useful for making sure your salt intake is high enough.
2) Poles won’t necessarily guarantee success but will make it more likely. They will also be good to lean on if feeling rough.
3) Have a back up plan, and never forget how it feels to quit.
4) Sunglasses are a waste of time until Courmayeur – Champex. The valley walls and trees shield the sun most of the way until its dark. A minor thing but lees gear to mess with.

Before the event I thought it may be a few years before I go back and do this again. Now I desperately want to go next year and have another go and hopefully erase this mental scar. I have my fingers crossed that I will win a place in the December ballot.

My distance covered 100 km 6400m
Well done to Lizzy Hawker (right hand side of the photos) who won this for her 2nd time. The first time in 2005 took everyone by surprise including herself. This time - after many great ultra race victories - it was an emphatic win.

The Borrowdale Fell Race

2nd August 2008
17 miles 6,500 ft


Well it felt like déjà vu, apart from on this trip up to Borrowdale we had an extra Bowland Runner in the shape of Declan. We were off to do the Fell race this time, a week after feeling that the hills and the weather had beat Will, Ian and I into submission. This was going to be interesting. The weather seamed to be on our side this time. So we had a chance of revenge on the same tough hills.

On arrival we got a bit of a soaking, in one of the many showers we experienced during the day. Never mind we did all the usual things and milled about for a while meeting some fellow Bowland runners. The tension was rising, but for me not as much as it would normally. I did not have high expectations of a finishing time. I wanted to beat my time of 4.28 set 3 years ago, and if possible go under 4 hours. But I was not going to kill myself trying to do either, as I wanted to be able to continue my training straight after the race, in preparation for the Tour of Mont Blanc at the end of the month.

Soon enough a quick briefing from the race organiser Andrew Schofield, and we were off down the narrow track and into queuing mode. As we stop started our way through the narrow passages I made a mental note to myself, next time start nearer the front. I felt good as we started the steep climb up to Bessy boot. A long string of runners stretched out up the hill, making navigation simple. Just follow the set of heels in front. From Bessy Boot to the next checkpoint is runable and for me this is good as I tend to cover the ground better when it is like this. I made places up all the way to Scafell pike. We tentatively found the rout off Scafell down the scree shoot that leads to the Corridor route. After a few miner errors I soon arrived at sty head. I filled my water bottle up and took some banana off Andy Farmer and made my up the long drag to the summit of Great Gable. I remember 3 years ago suffering on this climb. I think every time I climb this hill I suffer a bit, and this was no exception half way up I was feeling it, and eased off a bit so as not to go into the red zone for too long. This worked and I reached the top in good shape. A small error on the descent in cloud meant 2 minutes were lost. But I quickly corrected, the guy I was following carried on that way down some steep crags to god knows where. The rest of the runners following me backed up and we tracked back the correct descent line.

I ran the next bit well all the way to Honister; this is probably the nicest running on the route with great views of Ennerdale and Buttermere to the left. Straight through Honister and I had 42 minutes to get up Dale head and descend down to the finish. I thought it might be possible to break 4 hours, so gave a bit of an effort, but not too much. I judged the effort well to the top, and had plenty left for the descent. With only 18 minutes left to get back in less than 4 hours I knew it was not going to be possible due to the length of flat running in the valley floor. I still made a push and finished in 4 hours 7 minute 38. I will get under 4 hours next time.
Thanks to Rob (Topofahill) for the use of his excellent mid race photos.

The Borrowdale Recce

26th July 2008
16 miles 6,000 ft


On a boiling hot day Ian Will and I set off for Rosthwaite. We enjoyed the drive up their in the early morning haze. On arrival we had an inauspicious start to the recce, when we headed down the road the wrong way. But we soon corrected this (it seams to be a recurring problem of mine!) and we were soon heading off down the narrow passage- that in a weeks time we would be squeezing down with runners in the Borrowdale Fell Race. We soon started the first real climb up to Bessy Boot. This is the first steep climb on the route, but certainly not the last.

Once on Bessy boot we, or should I say I, got attacked by some nasty little flies, just at the moment I got my camera out to attempt to take some photos. But never mind I batted them off and got some good photos. The heat was now getting oppressive, and this was set to be the theme for the day. The heat continued to climb in the same steady fashion that we climbed the traverse along to Esk Hause and then eventually Sca fell Pike. Nearing Sca fell Pike we had our first respite as a small amount of wispy cloud shielded us from the sun for a few moments on the ascent, and also at an inopportune moment on the descent. It meant that we missed the track part way down as it went over a short climb and then to the right. We headed off left and ended up struggling to pass over a water fall. It all added on to the time that we were exposed to the ever increasing heat, especially now that the wispy cloud had completely disappeared.

We eventually made Sty Head, and despite the allure of a swim in Sty Head tarn, we continued straight up, onto Great Gable. I started to feel it now and the usual distance between me and Will on the climbs seamed to grow larger than ever, Ian was an equal distance behind me, clearly Ian was feeling the heat as much as I was, and we began to wilt in the afternoon sun. On reaching the summit Will and I basked in the heat trying to recover. Ian approached and we all sat on the rocks with the rest of the walkers to eat and discuss shortening the route. I decided the as the race was only 5 days away discretion was the better part of valour and we all agreed. The idea was to continue the route to Honnister and then part way up Dale Head, veer off towards Dale Head tarn on a lower traverse.

This went according to plan. Several stops for water and the customary dunking of the caps and we struggled up Dale Head to our traverse line. Rarely have I been so wiped out. The 5 ½ hours in the heat to this point had clearly taken their toll. We pressed on and finally descended down to the River Derwent, were we had a good well deserved wash.

Overall it was a great day out, albeit a testing one. We all hoped for cooler conditions next Saturday for the race.


Paddy Buckley Round 28th / 29th June 2008

June 28th 2008 18:00hrs from Pont Aberglaslyn car park
63 miles 28,000 ft

Not long after completing the Bob Graham round, on June 23rd last year, I decided that I wanted to attempt to complete the Paddy Buckley and the Ramsey Round next, and both within 24 hours. So the next target was to be the Paddy Buckley round. After 1 aborted attempt in August last year I steeled myself to organize another attempt.



Road support Wynn with help from Jean Williamson and Bec fawcett

The Paddy Buckley Round


Leg 1 Hebog and Nantlle ridge

Bill Williamson, Leigh Warburton, Neil Shepard

A nervous start saw us go straight down the road and 150 yards past the path that goes up through the forest. Anyway it amused us for a while, until it dawned on us that Iain’s absence (he mistook the day) was going to make the navigation hard work. When we cleared the forest it was as if someone had erased Bryn Banog, the cloud was low down, so quickly Leigh got the map and compass out and started checking our progress with compass bearings. It was difficult but with my reasonable knowledge of the route combined with the compass bearings we made good progress. It however meant we dropped off Banog and ended up too far right on Hebog. Committed to this side we had to ascend it through the crags. It was a steep route but fairly direct and fast. However given the option the grassy ramp to the left would have been our line.
The rest of the leg went well and as the mist cleared a familiar figure appeared on the decent of Trum y Ddysgl. Ian Roberts had run up to join us. I felt fresh here and we were going at a good pace, unfortunately too hot for Ian. So he waved us on. Neil Sheperd also lost a bit of ground and at this point decided no matter how much Wynn encouraged him; he wasn’t going to do the round. At Pont Cae’r-gors I ate some rice pudding as the midges ate me, until Ali fought back with some midge repellant.
Time 3:40 gained 23 minutes





Leg 2 Snowdon

Rob Woodall, Chris Reade, Bill Williamson

As we departed Wynn said “you’ve done your warm up now” and that’s exactly how fresh I felt as we headed off for Craig Wen. The pace was a bit quick for Bill who had been on the previous leg and he waved us on. It felt good knowing that even in the dark and the incessant cloud; I had more confident navigators with me. It was easier, mentally, not to have to worry about going wrong so much. We had a nice distraction when descending Yr Wddfa, some supporters for the 3 peaks yacht race were heading up, this made an unusual sight as we neared midnight on Saturday. It also opened up a new conversation that lasted until Navigation issues took over again.

We had to slow a few times on Carnedd Ugain, and the ridge to Ellio, to check bearings and comically, coming off Carnedd Ugain we ended up having to back track out of what I think was a sheep fold, which had a 4 foot drop off the far side.

The only other incident was when looking for the summit on Foel Gron, I ran into a barbed wire fence support, and gave myself a nice 4 inch cut in my shin as a momento. Other than that things went well. The final part of the descent off Ellio was aided by Yiannis shinning his head torch from the farm, and then guiding us down to the car park.
Whilst greedily eating 2 bacon buns Wynn massaged Voltarol on my left knee, it was aching, like my in growing toe nail, but I new that neither were too serious.
Time 4:43 gained 17 minutes





Leg 3 Glyderau

Yiannis Tridimas, Chris Reade, Duncan Elliot

Chris carried on with Yiannis, Duncan and I through the quarries and as soon as we had negotiated the greasy rocks of the Ellidirs the rain came. By the time we descended Y Garn I was getting cold. I remember Chris mentioning he had a spare top. So now it was time to squeeze it on. Duncan and Chris forced it on; I was certainly snug in a top that was way too small. Duncan decided he had had enough of dropping back and being encouraged by Chris with a “come on boyo”. So he dropped down via The Devils Kitchen vowing to meet us on the next leg.
The rocks on the Glyders were slippery and challenging, but that’s how I thought of it, as just another puzzle to solve, it was made easier by following Yiannis over them. One small mistake on Glyder Fach wasn’t really a problem we still made good progress in tough conditions.
Tryfan was tiring especially descending the steep top section, my toe was hitting the front of my shoe and really throbbing, but the clouds were lifting and with the increased light I felt better. Although we lost time on this section I reminded myself that the hardest sections were done. At llyn Ogwen it was more rice pudding, Voltarol on both knees, a change of socks , and a change of top to one that fit me.
Time 4:25 lost 9 minutes






Leg 4 Carneddau

Alan Duncan, Duncan Eliott, Chris Reade, Ali Welsh, Ali Raw

I still felt fairly strong and knew that if I dug in on the climb up Pen Yr Ole Wen, it would be the last long steep climb. I made good progress and gained some time. Once on the top I felt a bit lethargic, normally this is ground I can cover quickly but I couldn’t get going. Even the clearing skies didn’t spur me on. A toilet break when descending Pen Yr Helgi Du seamed to help though and I felt a bit better.

Alan and Duncan had picked the perfect grassy lines all the way but I still lost a bit of time on this leg, I think it was just a long rough patch. On the descent into Capel Curig I did pick up the pace a bit, just as the rain started and the mist rolled in again. A run down the road dodging cars brought us to the Pinacle Café and the awning made a great shelter, no idea what the customers thought though! At this point Chris thought that ½ a Paddy was enough for 1 day and ended his “ultra support” here. More rice pudding, Volatarol on the knees and my lower back (a product of all the scrambling I think) and some very nice chocolate cake, it’s a shame I could only chew half of it.
Time 3:29 lost 3 minutes





Leg 5 North Moelwyns

Steve Cliff, Sean Bolland, Neil Shepard

Moel Siabod is the last big climb but the angle is quite nice and the ground quite comfortable. It was good to have Neil join me again after the trials of leg 1. But halfway up it started to rain heavily and get windy. So the Rab jacket that was put in the rucksack as a last minute decision was put on, and Sean was glad to have my sodden jacket to wear as an extra layer. By the top of Siabod the hood was up the cuffs were tight and the draw stings pulled to breaking point. Over the coming hour we got a good soaking, but I was snug in my jacket, and Steve was navigating perfect lines so all I had to do was follow him. The flat tussocky parts, that weeks earlier I could run were now so saturated with water that I thought running them was going to take too much out me, so I decided not to risk it and walk the really squelchy bits. The skies started to clear as we approached Ceriig Cochion and it was nice to start feeling warm again. We made steady progress and had a good decent into the Quarry for a welcome rest. A pot of rice pudding and some cake, with a coffee made it a nice break. Neil left us here, and Wayne and Rob joined us.
Time 3:48 Gained 3 minutes

Leg 6 Moelwyns and Cnicht

Steve Cliff, Sean Bolland, Rob Woodall, Wayne Percival

Foel Ddu is a short sharp climb, and I wanted to get it out of the way. I felt strong again, possibly because I was on firm ground again, and pushed on to do it as fast as my reccie. Steve told me to slow down but I new it wasn’t too fast, I felt pretty good. I like the rest of the route over Moel Yr Hydd and then the descent onto the miners track followed by a nice out and back circuit ending on Moelwyn Mawr. The long arcing run to Cnicht was also good fun and we were now bathed in sunshine. The route up Cnicht was a lot easier than I remember from my previous attempt, which isn’t to say that I found it easy. But the top came without the usual battles that I remember from past efforts.

Descending the difficult steep upper slopes of Cnicht was a pleasure knowing that I had 1 hr 47 minutess left to finish in less than 24 hours. Alan Duncan met us on the way down and we all ran down the long track together. Steve had a bit of a fall just before we joined the road. But he dusted himself off and we all negotiated the road section back to Aberglaslyn car park. 23 hours and 12 minutes after leaving I was back. We all had a good chat and some soup and cake whilst bathed in sunshine. It was a great end to a fantastic day in the Welsh hills. Thanks to everyone that helped. You meade it a wonderful day.
Time 3:07 Gained 2 minutes

Total time 23:12