The North Face Ultra-Trail Du Mont-Blanc 2009

My strategy for the lead up to 18:30, and the race start, was simple, to stay off my feet and out of the sun for as long as possible. I decided to hibernate in my hotel room most of the day and only leave to take my Cormayeur kit bag at 17:50 hrs. I decided not to queue up at the start line for the briefing and instead rested by the river. 10 minutes before the start I made my way over to the carnival atmosphere at the start area, and lined up near the back. 2 minutes of silence to contemplate our run, then the usual foreboding – French foreign legion - music and we were off squashing our way through the start line. The streets were narrowed by the sheer weight of the supporters who cheered us off. After 5 minutes I managed to get into a steady run, the race had now begun, we were off. It crossed my mind as to weather I complete the huge circuit and run through the streets we were leaving behind; to finish in god knows how many hours time.

After a small climb through the woods we descended down to Les Houches, we would now start the first proper climb and it was the usual story of dodge the poles. This year I decided against poles again, most people say they help, but the idea of a mechanical aid doesn’t sit well with me, with regards to the purity of the run. About 90% of the field didn’t agree with my philosophy. Part way into the climb my stomach started to give me pain, I cast my mind back to last year and thought oh no not again - last year I set off with a less than settled stomach, which didn’t ease – but by the top of La Charme it had gone and would never return - no wonder babies cry when they get trapped wind. A swift descent into the ever darkening valley found me in Saint Gervais and the first rest point. The support here was amazing, running in along the high street high fiving the kids, to cheers of Bon Courage and allez allez. This was an amazing level of respect that would continue throughout the run.

I got into my routine here; pick up a bottle of water fill the bladder in the rucksack; put in a salt tablet, and then forage for food, some to eat there and then, and some that could be carried. My diet on the run consisted mainly of cheese salami and crackers, dark chocolate, fruit loaf and little bars of muesli and plain chocolate pieces to carry along with me. After 6 minutes I was off into the night and heading for Les Contamines. This is a short run but has a deceptive amount of climb in it. I enjoyed it as there was lots of support and it felt good to be moving easily. Les Contamines came and went and I soon set off for the start of the biggest climb up to Col Du Bonhomme.

A break at La Balme to re stock and I set off on the steepest part of the climb. By now it was 1 am and we were further into the hills so the support was few and far between until Cormayeur. I was almost glad of that as no one – apart from worried fellow runners – saw me fall over a steep grass verge and down the steep wall of the trail. It felt very steep, but luckily I managed to break my fall by slapping my arms on the trail as the rest of my body slid down the cliff edge. A few worried runners made to grab my arms, but I managed to climb up myself. I couldn’t resist shining my head torch to survey the void I could have been tumbling down. I checked myself for injuries, nothing apart from a grazed hand and sore arms. I had escaped lightly. “Be more careful I told myself” it worked I never fell again.

Over Col Du Bonhomme it was cold and cloudy so I put my jacket on. I made the long descent to Les Chapieux in good time, and was ready for another break. Then I started the next climb to Col de La Seigne. Looking back down these long climbs and seeing a snake of head torches stretching on into the distance is one of my enduring memories of this race. This time was just as wonderful as the first time. By now I was in a good rhythm and I felt it was a good sustainable effort. The top came and went easily enough in the wispy cloud, and I was at Lac Combal for a nice bowl of soup at 6,000 feet. Then it was off for Arete Mont Favre. I ran the initial part of the road to the start of the climb. I recollected how in 2005 I did this in daylight and now it was still pitch black. That felt good. The climb up and over Mont Favre felt good and the descent into daylight rejuvenated me. The thought of some pasta in the valley far below spurred me on.

There was a bit of confusion finding my kit bag. After resolving this I sat down and did the usual repair job on my feet, followed by a lovely bowl of pasta. Even though I was not taking my time 35 minutes had gone in a flash. A chance to take some of my own food was good, and would be a nice change for a while. I also had my Ipod here and decided to listen to it all the way to Grand Col Ferret for a bit of company; well sort of. So all too soon it was off to start the tough climb up to Refuge Bertone, only this year it seamed a lot easier. It wasn’t as hot but still I was in better shape. I made good progress up to Bertone, and ran well on the undulating path to Bonatti. Here I ended up taking a long toilet break, even queuing up with some guy that did not appreciated my urgency.

Feeling better I was off on the relatively short stint to Arnuva. This was mainly downhill and an easy leg. Arnuva was now basked in sunshine but it didn’t have the sting in it like last year. I even sat in the sun, and then set off for the highest point on the run Grand Col Ferret. It felt like a comfortable climb, not at all how I had it in my memory – in 2005 it was horrible incessant rain and last year I felt like the sun was bearing down on my back. Near the top I even had to put my jacket on due to the wind chill. Soon after on the other side it came off and I made good progress to La Fouly. Still feeling good I had a short break and made my way for Champex in beautiful sunshine.

The climb up to Champex felt good and a ½ can of red bull - off a guy whom was accompanied by his granddaughter – didn’t do any harm. This time going into Champex I felt strong. A quick patch up of a blister and a great bowl of pasta – the best food on the course – and I was off on the run around the lake towards Bovine. This was the first time I had seen this in daylight as in 2005 it was pitch black for me at this point, and last year my race never got this far. It was beautiful and the climb of Bovine in daylight was much nicer than I remember. On ascending Bovine I was passed by 2 young Female runners storming up. On the descent I decided to try and stay with them. This worked and kept my pace up until about 10 huge cows with bells a bonging, decided to block the entire trail. A patient 5 minute wait and they made their way into the impossibly rough ground to the left. I continued to Trient without my fast moving female duo to pace me.

It was now dark again and whilst ascending out of Trient and up Catogne I decided to put the Ipod on. Choosing a narrow piece of trail with a big drop off the side to get it out wasn’t the wisest of moves. I almost over balanced over the edge whilst fiddling with the ever tangled earphones. I carried on into the night enjoying the music and the fact that I still felt strong. A long descent and Vallorcine was the next checkpoint. Would the food be different? Well no it wasn’t but I though it was. In my foggy minded state I managed to look at cheese and think they were chips, even getting excited about the fact before taking a closer look and being amazed at the harsh reality of the cheesy – not chip – feast.

Back out into the blackness and I was now following the river to Col De Montes. I power walked most of it as it was gently uphill. Eventually we crossed a road. I had never done the part after this road crossing and wasn’t sure what I was climbing. Eventually we made the top of a steep climb and I realised that I had climbed the last major ascent. So I made a bit of an effort across to La Flagere and left the 2 guys I had followed up for dead. It was an inspiring scene down to my left was the lights of Chamonix and the half moon and stars lit up the sky. But I had to concentrate as this was the roughest ground on the route and was full of little ups and downs, so tough to get a rhythm. On entering the last checkpoint at La Flagere I was made to feel paranoid. The medic stared into my eyes and asked me if I was o.k. I told her yes. Then she asked about food and water. Did she not realise I had been sorting myself out for the last 31 hours? Maybe it was the bewildered look on my face, who knows! I was o.k. and left after a small cup of coke and taking some water in my bottle. Just one descent left. I made good progress and overtook a few on the way down. My lap of the Chamonix town felt special, I had dreamed of this ever since finishing the Ramsay round. A few people at each turn clapped, after all it was 3.20 am , and not a time for large noisy crowds. I completed the large loop of the town and crossed the line. Cheering was going on in my head even if the reality was much more silent. A quick photo, the chip removed and a prized finisher’s gillet was handed to me. It was over. What a run. I loved it. It was just as good as I hoped I would be.

32 hours 52 mins is faster than I anticipated, and I am very pleased with my effort. I finished at 03:22 on Sunday morning in 168th place out of 1383 finishers and 2286 starters. That put me in the top 7.5 % of the field. But I took over an hour longer at checkpoints than intended. I think that I could do a sub 30 hours. But I think I will leave that challenge for 2011.

I have some more tourist style photos of my trip here. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/ALAN.LUCKER/UTMB2009#

Thanks again, and a big thumbs up, to all those who sponsored me on behalf of St Johns Hospice Lancaster! We raised just over £550! You are all very generous.
It gave me great pleasure to hand it over today 16/09/2009.




The Results and event website is here http://www.ultratrailmb.com/accueil.php

TMB Training almost done

The last 3 weekends have seen me do a 34 mile run down the river Lune, a 26 miles run over Clougha and the local hills, followed by a crazy 3 consecutive ascents of Skiddaw.

In contrast to last year – were I had 3 weeks less training due to doing the Paddy Buckley round 3 weeks later into June – I had more time to do specific training. I did all 3 of these recent runs with the pack weighted to TMB + a bit, levels. All the runs went well, I did the River Lune run from Devils Bridge to Plover scar and back to Lancaster in 5 hours 40 mins, in fairly warm conditions. The local hill marathon (26 miles 4,500 feet) was done in 4 hours 35 minutes in constant rain. Then the crazy run!!

I decided that Skiddaw was an average type of trail to simulate the TMB. Its surface is similar in that it is mainly hard and stony; it has some steep parts and some gentle parts to the climb. The long climb is also good and at 25 miles and 8,500 feet it would pack a similar punch to the TMB. So the idea was to do 3 ascents and descents to make use of this ideal track. The first climb was going well until I got exposed to a brutal 50 + mph wind near the summit and lashing rain. I got battered on then off the summit ridge. After descending into the calm of Jenkin hill I questioned if I wanted to go through that 2 more times. I convinced myself that as the day wore on the temperature would rise and the wind drop. I was right about the temperature, but got battered by wind and rain twice more to complete a good training session in 5 hours and 40 minutes with one 5 minute break at the car after 2 laps. My last decent was the fastest - for confidence - 37 minutes, after a 1h 15 ascent.
It was a fun day, but not one that I will repeat. On my 3rd ascent some walkers asked me in a confused way is this you 2nd time up, when I replied "no it’s my 3rd", I think they thought I was mad. I hate doing out and back runs and this was just as much a mental battle as anything else. I think in future I will stick to making up circuits of hills, and leave this as a bizarre one off run.

So my training is almost complete, and I feel fit and ready for it I hope to do it in 34 hours but I will be flexible and adjust this if needed just to finish. Even my sponsorship is going well. Many generous friends, family and work colleagues have sponsored me to raise money for St Johns Hospice. So I feel I should have a much better run than last year. Well it couldn’t be much worse…..Could it.

TMB Thoughts

Completing the big 3 (Bob Graham, Paddy Buckley and Charlie Ramsay rounds) was a big undertaking and I am proud to be in a relatively small group (probably about 40) of runners that have achieved them in less than 24 hours. Ever since my horrible failure during the Tour of Mont Blanc last year I have been thinking about where I went wrong and what I could have done differently, it had even been a chink in my mental preparations in the lead up to the Ramsay Round, and to a lesser extent the Highland Fling. Now that I have done the Ramsay round and the Highland Fling it has renewed most of my confidence in my ability to endure, but the effect of the heat on me of last years TMB is still an unknown. I thought I handled heat well but last year made me seriously doubt this. Was it the heat or my mismanagement of the hot conditions? Maybe I will find out in just over 3 weeks time!

Bill's Paddy Buckley Round

For me
Glydderau 9 miles 5,700 feet
Carnddau 9.5 miles 4,300 feet

Another weekend and another night’s sleep missed. But it is a very enjoyable way to do it. On my way to Llanberis I pick up Ian and travel down to meet Bill at his second rest stop at about 02:45 on Saturday morning. Bill had started at Aberglaslyn at 19:00 and was the time he arrived 1 hour 20 mins up. A quick piece of Wynn’s beautiful choccy cake and we were off.

Bill had a quick 11 minute break and we headed off on the detour route – around a film set in the quarries – up to the first top Elidir Fawr. We made good progress and soon we were looking down on the spread of lights that surround Llanberis. The cloud on the first few tops mixed with a dark night and slippery rock kept Bill to a steady pace. It was probably a good thing given his fat start. We continued around the next few peaks and prior to starting up the Glydders I refilled the eater bottles at Devils kitchen. We negotiated the slippery rocks on the Glydders fairly well and I even managed to take a few photos in the early morning light. A quick down and we were now on Tryfan. I tried to miss out the South top but in doing so I contoured around the left too far and went beyond the summit. I apologised profusely as we back tracked onto Tryfans rocky top to touch Adam, or was it Eve? I still owe you a pint Bill. We made steady progress down to Ogwyn and Bills next pit stop. Near the bottom I take off in order to sort my kit out for the next leg.

After a 11 minute break Ian joins us for the long slog up Pen yr ole Wenn . By now the sun is out and although it is only 08:00 it is warming up. We make good progress and I take some photos on the ridge. As we traverse the Carneddau it gets progressively brighter and warmer. We all enjoy the run as this is probably the easiest part of the entire round. After descending the last peak, Pen lythrig y wrack I head off near the bottom to tell the support what he wants to wear next and what he would like to eat. I arrive at Capel Curigs Pinnacle café and tell Wynn and Jean his needs. Ian and Bill appear after 5 minutes and he is still looking good. My 8 hour run with Bill is over, I whish him luck and he heads off for the next 7 plus hour section – his last leg- with his new support.

Ian, Will and I head back to Ogwyn to pick up my car. Ian and I decide to have a bath in the stream next to Pen yr Ole wenn. That was seriously cold and certainly woke me up, after my night of driving and running with no sleep. We kill some time having a meal in Bedgellert than head for Aberglaslyn to wait for Bills arrival.

We all get a bit nervous as the clock ticks to 18:40. 20 minutes left. But then we hear voices Iain and Sara have run ahead to tell us he is not far behind. Then Huw, Moo (sara), John Fleetwood and Rob Woodall appear. They part and let Bill slap the road sign and let out a sigh of satisfaction and fatigue. 23 hours and 45 minutes after leaving Bill is back and completed the Paddy Buckley. Just the Charlie Ramsay round left for Bill now. A great job well done.

Rob's Meiryionnydd round

18th July 2009
12.5 miles 5,700 feet

The Meiryionnydd round was devised and completed by Yiannis Tridimas in May 1998. The round covers 73 miles of very rough ground in the south of the Snowdonia National park, and includes 25,000 feet of climbing. It has never been repeated in 24 hours. I think this is down to the fact that it covers rough ground that most walkers and fell runners tend to avoid, and partly down to the fact that it is a very tough challenge.

Rob decided that he would have a go and intended to go for it in May – whilst the vegetation fern, bracken, brambles, heather etc – was less established, but injury forced him to have a go on the 18th July. Due to a bad forecast he moved the start point to the South side of Barmouth bridge. We got out of the car at 02:29 and by 02:31 Rob was off sprinting across the bridge, eventually David and I caught him on the north side. We then hacked our way up the roughest ascent I have ever made on any hill. Slipping in the dark on the bracken covered rocks and scraping your legs was followed by the delight of putting your hands on some prickly little bushes. In the 4 hours that followed of dark or misty gloom or both. We were bashing through heather, climbing at a fast rate, or running fast on good ground. All this time Rob was micro navigating with a GPS. This was impressive as neither David nor I could offer any navigation help.

After the Rhinogs I left David and Rob to continue. I walked out with the mid section support crew. I have never felt so attacked by the Flora in all my life. It was Ironic that on the walk out to the car, unaware to me Ian Roberts’s rucksack snagged a branch as he leant forward; it pinged off his backpack and smashed me in the face. I admitted defeat the vegetation had beaten me. But I will return in spring for revenge.

Rob continued on at an impressively fast pace up to the start of his last leg. He was now understandably tired and slightly slowing, but still on schedule. The weather had closed in and he decided that it would be unlikely that he could complete in 24 hours in the impending bad weather. So he gave up after Dyfi Forrest. It was a fantastic effort, and in spring it will be an easier task. Roll on May 2010.

Richard Davies Bob Graham Round

13th June
leg 5 10.5 miles 2,500 feet

One week after Will and I did the Ramsay Round we went to support one of Wills – and now one of my – friends on a Bob Graham round. I was a bit tired so decided to do leg 5 with him, thinking it would be a comfortable paced trot out, I was wrong. Will decided better of it and gave more logistical support and encouragement – not that he needed much of either. He was making the most of the perfect weather and was so well up on schedule at Honister pass that a lot of his support hadn’t even got there in time. I ran with him over Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson taking photos, which felt fine until the 6 mile road section, were at times it felt like we were doing a 10k race. He finished in a mighty impressive 18 hours 48.

Alan, Will and Bill's Charlie Ramsay's Round

6th June 2009
56 miles 28,500 feet

It is 10:15 am on Saturday morning and we are at the start point of the round, the Glen Nevis youth Hostel. Will and I meet up with Bill and the rest of our Support team. Not long after we start to chat and sort things out, a large rain cloud hovers over the Ben and it starts to rain. This was not forecasted, but over the recce sessions we have learned that this part of Scotland has its own weather, especially around Ben Nevis. No matter, the team is gathered and we are all committed. I am used to the feeling before these daunting rounds, and I use my experience of that staring into the abyss feeling, to calm my nerves before the off.

A quick sorting out of the food bags for our static hill support and we are off, or at least we would have been was it not tourist coach that passed in front of us at precisely 11 am. First obstacle cleared and we were off up the Ben. Bill set the pace but went too quick whilst overtaking the walkers on the tourist track; I felt the need to remind Bill that we have a long way to go yet. We slow a bit and as we begin to approach the top of the Ben and the drizzly rain turns to snow. The snow of our recce 2 weeks earlier still covers the last 400 feet of ascent, but this time it is easier going and we make the summit in 1 hr 27, 6 minutes up. Here we meet John Fleetwood who has gone up ahead of us and will now join us on the rest of the leg to Loch Treig dam. We take a breather and a quick bite to eat then head for the descent to Carn mor Dearg arête. This part of the round is tricky on large boulders, and when slippery it makes it tough to move at speed. We make and effort along the arête and the snow stops to reveal some blue sky, maybe the forecast was right.

On the ascent of Aonoch Mor we fill our bottles in the stream - For this round we had to carry our own bum bag and be semi self sufficient – we ascend together then John heads for Aonoch Beag as we do the out and back to a snowy Aonoch Mor top. We quickly ascend then descend Aonoch Beag together then head down the steep gully to our first static support point at the col before Sgurr Choinnich Mor. Keith is wrapped in his bivvy bag, the snow and rain has gone and the sun is out but there was a cold wind. It was good to see Keith and a quick bite to eat and a quick chat, then we were off heading for Sgurr Choinnich Mor.

We made good time and were pretty much on schedule, which for this leg was quite tight, until our ascent of Stob Coire an Laoigh. On the ascent of the scree Bill felt a twinge of cramp and started to slow down Will and me waited a couple of minutes on the summit for John and Bill to summit. This was the same on the next top. We all descended Stob Coire an Laoigh towards Stob Ban and felt privileged to find a snow gully which made 200 meters of the descent a real pleasure. By the summit of Stob Ban Bill was another 3 minutes back and was starting to suffer a bit. We descended to the stream together and collect more water for the long haul up Stob Coire Eassain. Will and I start the ascent ahead of Bill, following the stream as a hand rail to the summit, and soon we are well ahead again. We make the decision to carry on over Stob Coire Eassain and then Stob a Choire Mheadhoin and down to the rest stop at the dam for a longer break. As we are half way up Stob a Choire Mheadhoin I look back and see 2 ants on top of Stob Coire Eassain. I calculate that they are 12 minutes behind. Will and I make the descent to the dam right on schedule and take our overly long break.

About 22 minutes after we arrive Bill arrives and has a break. Will and I have been fed and watered by Wynn, Ian and Andy, and by now Will has all his winter clothes on to keep warm. After a 37 minute break for Will and I and a 12 minute break for Bill we head across the dam with our new hill supporter Ian, and onto the railway. I feel the need to let everyone know, as if they didn’t already, that we were 25 minutes down on the schedule. I suppose I wanted to inspire some urgency we could not afford to let this continue. Half way up Stob Sgrioddain Bill drops back again. This time he tells us to carry on without him. He also bravely tells us to take our only support Ian with us, reluctantly we do this. This decision gave Will and I a fighting chance to get the round back on track. We started to gain time Back and as the day turned to night we descended Beinn Na Lap only 9 minutes down.

After a short break under the railway bridge Ian Will and I set off on the long relatively flat section to Loch Elide Mor ruins. During the clear night we make our way around the south side of Loch Treig and follow the river around to our crossing point. The night is beautiful and I think we enjoy it too much and walk parts we should have run. We cross the river a touch early and end up slipping on rocks I slip and grab Will’s shoulders saving myself a dunking, Ian has no one to grab and he takes an early morning plunge. We find the track and run to the distant head torches at our 2nd and last stop point at the ruins.

Will and I arrive 12 minutes down. We inform the support that Bill is an estimated 30 minutes behind, and ask Yiannis to help us on the Mamores. He agrees and sets off ahead of us. We have a scheduled 12 minute break and head off up what was to prove to be the toughest climb on the round; come to think of it; the toughest climb on any of the big 3. Will and I puffed and panted and wheezed our way up, at times on all fours. We barely spoke a word as we ascended the steep tussocky boulders that make up Sgurr Elide Mor. It ended suddenly but it had taken its toll and Will and I suffered. I recovered quicker though and Will struggled on the next 3 Munros. Yiannis took my bum bag and his sack and I did not keep a track of the times as my schedule was in the bum bag.

On the way to Na Gruagaichean I realised that we weren’t moving fast enough. I urged Will on and as we descended towards Keith for a quick break I retrieved my schedule off Yiannis to keep a track on how we were doing. I tell Will that we need to descend faster and keep pushing on the ascents, so as not to make the end a rush. He responded and we clawed more time back. I didn’t tell him that, as we started the imposing ascent of Am Bodach, that at that point we should have been on the summit, we didn’t need to panic yet. Fourteen minutes later we were on top and 14 minutes down.

As we approach Sgurr an Lubhair we are surprised to meet John again, continuing his video diary. He joined us and we made good progress and used the descent under the crags off Sgurr a Mhaim to save time. Stob Ban and Mullach Nan Coirean are relatively easy peaks and now we are moving better. On our 24th and last peak Mullach Nan Coirean we were bob on schedule. John, Will and I descend together as Yiannis decided to check out a different line. I trip and do a full roll, luckily on the tussocky lower slopes and get a soft landing. As we join the 3mile long forest track Will decides to walk some of it. I decided to run it and hand John my jacket. I ran most of the way and just as I am pondering the right place to cut through the woods to the road Rob Woodall appears and guides me down. I then run down the ½ mile of road on my own to the finish. It felt great to complete a beautiful but tough round in glorious sunshine. It also felt great that I had now completed the big 3 rounds which are the Bob Graham in England, the Paddy Buckley in Wales and the Charlie Ramsay in Scotland. I finished in 23 hours and 27 mins. Eight minutes later Will runs for the bridge forgetting that the Youth Hostel is the end, we joke that he fancies another lap.

We talk to Bill at the finish and discover that unfortunately he had to retire at Loch Elide Mor ruins, it was not to be his day. Will and I will be on hand for his next attempt in 2010.

Thanks to

Road \ walk in support
Wynn, Ian Roberts, Andy Farmer, Telitha
Running Hill Support and photos
John Fleetwood, Ian cookson, Yiannis, Bob Wightman,
Static Hill Support
Keith

You were all great and we could not have done it without your fantastic support.