The Highland Fling Race

25th April
53 miles 8,500 ft

After an overnight stay in Milngavie Will and I registered for the 7:00 hrs start. We, like most others, distributed our 4 food bags in the relevant cars; these would then be distributed down the course for us to collect. We then made our way to the start line.

Will decided to start mid pack; I started further forward near the elite runners. I noted Jez – the favourite – in front lined up with a few other familiar faces. Murdo set us off and we quickly made our way through the town centre and onto the West Highland Way trail, which would take us all the way to Tyndrum. I set off at a comfortable marathon pace (probably 4 hours ish). My initial plan was to run and break it up with walking breaks from the start. But the terrain was easy until Inversnaid so I decided to run as much as I could, and walk the steep hills. As I approached Conic Hill I could make out the leaders in the distance about half way up. Conic Hill ascent was to be my first walk of any length. I made a good quick descent picking out some good grassy lines, and overtaking a few runners mainly the super vets and women that started at 06:00 hrs.

I soon arrived at Balmaha and the first checkpoint. I collected my first food bag and spent 5 minutes sorting my water and food out, and then off I ran. The route now follows the east side of Loch Lomond through forests. Every now and then the route pops out onto the road and then back into the woods. I ran most of the undulating trail to Rowardenan checkpoint. To this point I was sticking to an, optimistic 9 hour schedule. After a quick break I was on the trail again but this rough section, which for the most part is hard to maintain any speed on, is very rough and rocky with lots of trees to weave around. This started to fatigue me. After this section I never felt quite as strong again. Maybe the fast start had caught up with me.

I reached the last checkpoint at Bein Glas farm in glorious sunshine. Sitting down in the sun made me realise how hot it was for the first time. I had many conversations with runners along the way, but for the first time I had a good chat with a spectator whom had done the race last year. He made me realise that the game was up on the sub 9 hours. I re adjusted my goal, and In my foggy mind I thought that 2 hours 25 mins from here was plenty and sub 9 ½ hours was not a problem. The uphill section out of Bein Glas was tougher than I remember from the West Highland Way race of 2004. I began to suffer cramps as I neared the forest. Occasionally I had to stop to stretch out my calf muscles and even my quads. I have never cramped like that before. I struggled through the forest section were a couple of runners overtook me. I was struggling on the downhill bits of the rollercoaster style steep ups and downs. Eventually I got to the road crossing and flatter terrain.

I managed to get back into a proper running rhythm again, albeit a lot slower than 20 miles ago. I crossed the road again and was now getting that feeling like it was the last 4 miles of a marathon, except I had very little idea of the distance left. Apart from walkers telling me “well done not far to go”, the walkers were great all day, considering the inconvenience we must have caused them. I was trying to recall this section from when I did the 2004 WHW race, but I was too tired to recall it in enough detail. I came to a slight incline in a small section of road and started to walk thinking that even my sub 9 ½ hours was up. But as I rounded the corner I noticed some race marshals. I looked over my right shoulder, and across the field was a large finishing gantry. So I entered the field and noted that I had 1 ½ minutes to make sure I ducked under 9 ½ hours. So I made an effort across the last bit of trail. I did it, just; in 9 hours 29 mins and 40 secs. The time was not that important it just kept me going when I felt pretty weak towards the end.

I sorted myself our and retrieved the flask of coffee just as Will came over the line in 10 hours 22 mins. We both had the beautiful stovies I kept mine down Will didn’t, and vowed to give it another go next year. Both the stovies and the race.

I felt it was a good effort, as I had never done that length of race before. I’m sure I can improve on that time in the future. The race is really well organised and ranks up their as one of my favourites despite my own suffering at the end. Jez Bragg won the race in a new record time of 7:19:09.

Anniversary Waltz Fell Race

11th March
11.5 miles 4,500ft

The anniversary waltz is a race I had been meaning to do for about 3 years. But for varying reasons this year was to be my first chance. So even though I was still feeling a bit rough from a stomach bug, I decided to take part.

Ian Cookson joined me and we both started together in the middle of the pack. I vowed to set off steady and see how the stomach felt. The perfect weather inspired me to push a bit harder and soon after starting on the first bit of trail I overtook Ian. I felt o.k. and so continued at about 90 % effort.

The views were amazing from the tops, as I scooted over Robinson, Hindscarth and Dale Head. It was now that I chose the wrong line off Dale. I should have known it was the wrong line as I was now completely on my own going down the right hand line towards the tarn. I had overtaken fellow Bowland runner Declan at the top, and by the time I descended to the tarn I was 200 yards behind. We continues this cat and mouse game – not the he knew it as I didn’t have my Bowland vest on – over High Spy until I finally passed him on the top of Cat Bells. I then lined up Paul Morton but could not quite catch him.

I was pleased with my effort and felt remarkably o.k. considering how unsettled I had been the previous week. It was a beautiful day to be in the Hills. The race was brilliantly organised by Steve and Wynn. Ian enjoyed also enjoyed the run finishing 190th in 2h 18:50. I finished 105th in 2h 07:56. The winner was Morgan Donnelly in 1h 35:58.

Day 1 The hardest Munro

4th April
25 miles 9,100 ft

Saturday was planned to be the long day of the two. It proved to be, but not quiet as we planned it. It proved a tough way to bag 1 new Ramsay Round Munro.

Our initial Idea was to run from Glen Nevis Car Park where Wills truck would be left. Then follow the River of Nevis over and around to Loch Elide Mor then run all the Mamores back to either the Youth Hostel or the car depending on levels of tiredness.

Will, Ian and I followed this plan well for a while getting a soaking from the incessant drizzle as we made our way down the side of the river. We trudged through heavy ground before reaching the shooters track and easier running ground. After 3 hours 20 minutes of run walking we reached the foot of Sgurr Elide Mor. This ascent proved taxing and the rain seamed to get heavier. We made the top and bizarrely it was dead calm (maybe the eye of a mini storm). We descended to the track that skirts around Binnein Mor and leads to Binnein Beag. At the bottom we put some on extra clothes as the wind started to bite. The ascent of Binnein Beag was good. We had a quick chat with some walkers on the top then managed to track too far right onto tricky rocky ground on the right, never again! As we ascended Binnein Mor the cold began to bite and my hands were numb. Even with winter climbing gloves and jacket on, the combination of rain then icy 50 mph gusts with snow chilled my body and hands.

We ascended too direct and had to track right around to the ridge, kicking steps in the snow covered slope, it was now almost a white out, and once I gained the ridge the wind was even worse. I continued but had to stop as Ian was nowhere to be seen. Will went back for him – he had slipped and fell 15 feet but was o.k – now that I was stood still my whole body was cold, and I began to shiver. When they caught me up and said that they had enough I was glad. I was ready to get out of their anyway. So we decided to descend to Mamore lodge via Na Gruagachean. We then joined the West Highland Way for a few miles, the wind was still quite strong and I was still uncomfortably cold. So Wills idea to ascend to the col between Sgurr A Mhaim and Stob Ban was a good one, at least I would warm back up again. So we slogged off up the 2,000 ft ascent and over the other side to thankfully land back at the car 10 hours after leaving it.

In all we had bagged one new munro and spotted the correct line onto Sgurr Elide Mor . It was probably the hardest way to gain 1 new summit. But we vowed to scrap the previous day 2 plans and carry on where we left off, and finish the Mamores once and for all.

Day 2 Five new Munros.

5th April
16 miles 8,300ft

What a difference a day makes. Although feeling a bit fatigued Will and I decided to ascend back up to just below the summit of Na Gruagachean and run all the way back to the youth hostel, and then walk back to the Bunk house.

Ian dropped us off at Mamore lodge and decided he would have an easier day by making his first trip up Ben Nevis. Will and I proceeded to have a great day in the Mamores. Once we made the 2,400 foot climb back to the RR route, we spent 5 ½ hours tracking the munros back to Glen Nevis youth hostel. We even tried out a new line off Sgurr a mhaim contouring out the ridge on the way to Stob Ban. We decided that although it was fairly quick, this was offset by the tricky off camber running, and may be a bit wearing at the end of the round. The rest of the route seamed pretty straightforward especially in the sunny clear weather.

As we approached the final summit of Mulach Nan coirean We realised our mistake last time that we went to the far set of cairns to the left and not the near ones, which is the summit, so this time we made the correct summit and consequently the right decent. We used our knowledge from our Friday recce of the decent through the woods, to easily make it to Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. It was a fantastic 7 hour point to point from Mamore lodge to the Ben Nevis bunkhouse, in beautiful if blustery cool weather, on some of the finest ridges I have run. We were even ½ an hour up on our Ramsay Round schedule. It certainly made up for Saturday.

I now think that Scottish weather has to allow you the chance to do what you want on the hills. I think the weather will be of more importance on this round than on either the Bob Graham or Paddy Buckley rounds. So fingers crossed for the 6th of June.

Double Fairfield Horseshoe

15th Feb 2009

18.5 miles 6,700 ft

My first venture into the real hills this year was to be one of many stepping stones in the lead up to my 3 main undertakings this year. The Ramsay Round was always going to be my number one priority, closely followed by the TMB and to a lesser degree the Highland Fling.

Converting mainly road running fitness to mountain fitness takes regular trips to the “real hills” to achieve. Ideally I would be going to Fort William and running on the actual RR route to gain this. But due to the length of drive (10 hour round trip in the car) I will have to gain most of this fitness in the lakes, with the odd foray to Scotland.

So I put it to Ian, Will and Bill (Will and Bill are keen on an atempt at the RR with me) that we could complete a double horseshoe of Fairfield. Up until now most of our runs together had been based on the BG or PB, so I thought it was a good idea to do some runs that aren’t one either of these routes. The idea was to start at Ambleside and go through Rydal Hall ascend Nab Scar, onto Heron Pike then Great Rigg Man. Top out on Fairfield then traverse across to Dove Crag in order to descend via Hartsop above how, and join the road into Patterdale. We would then ascend St Sunday Crag, then Coffa Pike, before topping Fairfield again. This would complete the horseshoe from the Paterdale side, we would then descend Dove Crag and High Pike to drop into Ambleside to complete the Horseshoe from Ambleside.

They decided it was a good idea so Ian Will and I travelled up to meet Bill in Ambleside main car park; we bit the bullet and paid the extortionate parking before heading off. We started off at a good steady pace through the flat terrain of Rydal Hall and then ascended up 1,000 ft onto Heron Pike. Then up another 1,000 ft onto Herron pike and through the first patches of frozen snow. The ascent of Great Rigg and Fairfield were made tough by the ever thickening snow and an increase in the chilly wind. I started to question shorts as my choice of leg wear.

We didn’t hang about on Fairfield, and quickly descended then did a short re ascent through the snow onto Dove crag. In the cloud it was tough to pick out the ideal descent line, so after a quick, cold look at the map I decided to lead us and ended up on a rocky ridge, not the ideal line but we soon made it to better more run-able ground.

After a while of descending towards Hartsop Above How, Bill decided the mile of road around to Patterdale was best avoided. So Bill and Ian decided to cross directly over to St Sunday Crag. Will and I carried on, on the planned route. After about 1 ½ hours and a tough snow strewn ascent of St Sunday Crag we joined up again. A fast descent of St Sunday Crag in the yielding snow led us to the tricky ascent onto Cofa Pike, following in Wills Kicked in steps made it a bit easier. Soon we were back on Fairfield at which point the clouds cleared and for the umpteenth time I got asked by some walkers, if my legs were cold. They were, so we quickly took some photos and made our way down. We waved goodbye to Bill, whose knees were a bit sore and slowing him down, and carried on with our descent. We arrived back at the car 5 hours 50 mins after setting off. We then met Ian’s wife who whisked him off to Keswick for the weekend.

It was a great first stepping stone and I didn’t wait long for the next one. The following Weekend I went on my own to repeat the run this time with a quicker trip in mind, so I noted the timings.

Fairfield 1h 24m
Patterdale 55m
St Sunday Crag 1h 6m
Fairfield 2nd time 35m
Ambleside 57m
Total time 4 h 57m

The weather was similar but slightly less snow on the ground. I wore shorts and was asked numerous times if I was cold. At times I was. But moving fast it was o.k as I didn’t spend too much time in the high exposed areas.

3 day Ramsay's Round Recce

The final 24 hour round takes me to Scotland. Fort William is the new focus of my attention and specifically the 24 Munros (well technically 23 as 1 got demoted since Charlie’s Round in 1978) that makes up Charlie Ramsay’s round. I have previously been to Fort William on several occasions. At the end of my 2003 walk of the West Highland Way, on completing the WHW race in 2004, on doing the Lochaber Marathon twice (2005, 2006) and in doing the Ben Nevis Race in 2006. Even after all these trips the only 2 Scottish Munros I had “bagged” were Ben Lomond – a detour whilst walking the WHW – and Ben Nevis. So I embark on a real adventure. Over the coming months I will learn the Rmasay Round route in the same way I did the BG and PB.

Day 1 : Ben Nevis to Stob Ban and Back via Water of Nevis. A 12 hour Epic

19th Nov 2008
25 miles 11,000 feet

My first foray into the round beyond Ben Nevis was always going to be interesting. It was even more so because Bill Williamson and Will Houghton accompanied me to do the 3 days of recceing. Bill and Will both had set their sights on the CR as their next big challenge, after their completions of the Bob Graham round earlier in the year. Unlike me they decided to leave the Paddy Buckley round to be the last of the “big 3”. It meant that we could all contemplate making an attempt on the round together, and as the round is tough to get support for, we would all need to learn the route well as we could not guarantee good navigators on the hills on the attempt. After a long drive up the night before we set off on our recce at exactly 08:00 hrs from the Glen Nevis youth Hostel.

It felt good to be setting off from the start point of the route – I never did this on my recces in the lakes or in Wales until I had reccied most of the other sections first. So my first proper run into the Scottish hills would be the same as the start of the round. The weather was heavy and the forecast was for strong winds, the mild temperature was in our favour though, no ice hopefully. We made the top of Ben Nevis in reasonable time, our ascent was not on the ideal line, but 1 hr 50 wasn’t too bad. The top was cold and windy, so thicker jackets and gloves were adorned. Now the discovery began for me, and for Will it began when we set off from the Youth Hostel. Bill however new this ground pretty well and expertly guided us onto the Canr mor Dearg arête, a ridge line that ascends to the next Munro as a ridge for 1.5 miles all the way to the summit.

We then descended to the Col ready for an out and back to Aonoch Mor, up until this point the wind was noticeable but not too strong. But it seamed to pick up to storm force now and at times it was knocking us about. But the ground was good and the small pockets of snow were a help if anything. The descent off Aonoch Beag was interesting. Instead of taking a slightly safer longer route round, we decided to ease our way into a gully and ski (on fell shoes) down the snow filled gully. We all had a shot with varying degrees of success, but it as worth it for the entertainment value. At the Col my camera came out for the 2nd and last time. After this I wasn’t in any mood to get my camera wet in the incessant drizzle and horrific wind.

I don’t remember too much of the next few Munros except that some of the ridges were a battle against the wind, at times we were almost lifted off our feet and at other times we couldn’t move against it. I do remember being blown up the last steep part of Stob Coire an Laoigh and trying to stop myself before being blown into the summit nest cairn, and descending a rock strewn way off Stob Choire Claurigh whilst Bill and Will to the left of me made much better progress. Only a race decent, when I finally cleared the boulder field, allowed me to catch them at the bottom of Stob Ban.

Not fancying the battering that would come from the vicious wind again on the top, Bill had decided to miss out Stob Ban. Will and I continued up taking a pounding from the wind. We struggled to get off the top in the correct direction due to the incredible force of the wind. But once part way down, we soon made our way towards the alt Coire Rath. We caught Bill up after about ½ an hour of following the stream. We then decided to split up from Bill again. The plan was for Will and I to run ahead, do the 7 miles of bog hopping followed by 3 miles of road running back to the car. Then drive back up to Glen Nevis to pick up Bill. This would shorten the day a bit. Well that was the plan anyway!

It was all going well; even in the early 4 pm gloom we were making good progress, down the boggy side of the water of Nevis. But as we continually crossed over the river – to find better ground – we found ourselves on the left hand side of it. Unknown to us this is the wrong side. We continued to go up and down through boggy land that now and then forced us up away from the steep sides of the river. Eventually, just as will and I were tiring, and getting tired of the blackness in front, we came up against a 200 foot crag that jutted straight up from the river. Bills head torch now seemed nearer than ever, so knackered and having run out of food and water, we decided to wait for Bill.

In the mean time Will attempted to cross the flooding river and after almost getting swept away thought better of it. Bill reached us and shouted over the noise of the raging river, that we had to back track to the bridge. ½ a mile of back tracking got us to what Bill and the Scots call a foot bridge. I would call it more of a high wire with hand supports. One at a time we carefully edged our way across the 2 bits of steel cabling that was the foot part of the bridge 100 feet or so to the other side. Now on good ground we both felt happier. I was on the verge of bonking and so asked Bill for some food, he supplied me with a small amount of fruit cake. This revived me, and Will and I ran most of the 3 miles down the road to the car. We saved Bill about ¼ of a mile by picking him up. We all vowed that recce day 2 would have to be an easy one. We were all wasted, although the Indian and a couple of beer that night did partially revive us.

Day 2. The last 3 Munros

20th Nov 2008
16 miles 6,500 feet

Bill decided to have a rest day, due to the effects of the previous epic day. So Will and I vowed to have an easy run. So the last 3 Munros on the round were a good suggestion by Bill. The plan was to take a direct route from Glen Nevis up onto Sgurr a Mhaim. We started off on a well worn path at about midday, and missed the cut up directly onto the top. So having realised this we looked at the possibility of cutting across onto the ridge, we both decided that we would take the longer route and dismiss this potentially dangerous short cut. So we tracked along to Lochan Coire nam Maseach and then proceeded to do the out and back on the Devils ridge. This was a bit up and down, and in places very exposed. But we took care and made it across. Going on to the summit of Sgurr a Mhaim we got hit by a wall of wind that pushed us to the floor – we were getting used to this level of obstruction now. We fought our way onto the summit and huddled behind a, thankfully, large cairn. I, or rather Will quickly got the camera out of my rucksack, and we speedily took some photos before retreating. Luckily there was only snow on 1 side of this summit so when we set off through this snow I realised we were heading in the opposite direction, a quick about turn and we were off fighting our way back down and across, the thankfully relatively sheltered ridge.

The next 2 Munros Stob Ban and Mullach Nan Coirean Were relatively uneventfull, occasionally we would take the usual battering from the icy wind. But as we started to descend the final Munro the wind gave us a pasting so hood in hand we fought our way off the summit. In failing light I missed the descent line, and instead of taking the right hand ridge we veered off to the broader left ridge. This lead us to the wrong part of the Sron Riabhach Forrest, and consequently we got lost. After the best part of an hour of me cursing and Will trying to draw positives, we donned head torches and vowed to continue to the end of the track. The end of the track was where it joined the West Highland Way. Luckily I had done it twice and so recognised the thistle symbol. We then followed the route to the Restaurant, which ironically brought us out about ½ mile form the bunkhouses we were staying at, and about 3 miles from Glen Nevis, were the car was.

So after a quick stop to de-cloth, we ran most of the way down the road through the blackness back to retrieve the car. 6 hours 10. Not exactly an easy day. But I suppose its all relative.

Day 3. The Mamores dressed for winter

21st Nov 2008

9 miles 5,000 feet

After a day of rest Bill was keen to have a look at the Mamores so we decided on a run based on what would be the first 4 Munros of our clockwise attempt. We drove from our base in fort William to Mamore lodge just above Kinloch Leven. From here we would start our run.

It was a cold start to the day and it took a while before we warmed up a bit. By the time we headed off the shooters track and up the side of Sgurr Elider Mor it was snowing and I was now warm everywhere except for my feet. Going through the snow line meant trudging through slushy snow. This was a learning curve for me as I have, until know, avoided going for runs in the lakes in such conditions. I was about to learn the value of Seal Skinz socks over my inadequate Thorlos.

So with numb feet we climbed steadily onto the shoulder of Sgurr Elider Mor this was in the form of a plateau area. Unfortunately at the same time it stopped snowing, the wind picked up and as we passed by Coire an Lochain and we got blasted by spin drift whipped along by a fierce wind, this was another painful lesson in winter conditions. I started to – for the first time – see the point in balaclavas and ski goggles!

Eventually we ascended the steep southern slope up onto Sgurr Elider Mor, this was a tricky ascent due to the rocks being covered in powder snow. I ran up the grassier parts in a vain attempt to get some feeling back into my toes. We made the top after some precarious boulder hopping and were met by a fairly strong wind. A quick look at the snowy vista, and a shocking look at how far Ben Na Lap is away (this is will be the previous Munro on the round) and we sped off down the snowy slopes. A fast descent led us to the track that skirts Binnein Mor. We decided to miss out the out and back to Binnein Beag as the conditions were proving a bit testing and the skies looked threatening. So at the Col we took a left turn and headed for Binnein Mor. Will and Bill took a line out to the right which was a less steep incline leading to the ridge. I shouted to them “are you taking the tourist route” I was to rue those words. My steep more direct route onto the ridge was quick but the snow kept giving under my feet, so I had to dig my hands in the snow for more traction. Anyway after what felt like an extreme cardio gym work out I finally made the ridge. The small consolation was that I had warmed up and I had time to get the camera out and take some really good photos of Will and Bill ascending the ridge. Another bonus was that the camera had defrosted after its ice induced erratic behaviour on Sgurr Elider Mor.

A blasting by the wind on Binnein Mor and we quickly descended to a sheltered are for a bit of respite. We then ascended the small bit of ridge and were on the last part of Na Gruagaichean before we knew it. We even had to check the maps to make sure that we were already there. Normally you have to fight harder for a Munro on this round, but this one seemed easy, it probably won’t feel that easy next June!

From the summit Bill pointed out the next 3 Munros, and we decided that we had done enough for the day and descended down the snowy West flank of Na Gruagaichean. We made a rapid descent in the nice snow covered grass, only pausing to observe 30 deer running across the valley bottom. We carried on and 20 minutes later we were back at the car. Not a long day out – only about 5 hours, but it was fun, and my first taste of true winter conditions.

It had been a great 3 days of recceing in Scotland. We topped it off by going to a get together at Stair Village hall near Keswick on the way home. Will and I did a half day half night reverse run around the Anniversary Waltz. We then had a few beers with some good running friends. A kip on the floor, and then we set off home to end a great 4 days of Fell running.